With the serious work done, we have a couple of days free in Livingstone before our return to the UK. Livingstone is a tourist place, but is quiet at this time of year. On Monday, we met some tame(ish wild animals who posed for photographs; and on Tuesday the talk at breakfast was all about Bethany's plan to bungee jump over the mighty Zambesi, from the bridge that traversed between Zambia and Zimbabwe. Her challenge took on a new slant - she agreed to zip wire across the gorge first, then do a swinging drop before the main event. She held her nerve and carried out all three and the bungee was spectacular - all caught on professional video and given to her at the end.

We are all very proud of her!

In the late morning, much to our surprise, we were joined by Robson Green on his way back from filming in South Africa. We shared lots of laughs whilst he, his family and three of our team tried zip wire ropes and drops in to the gorge from a nearby adventure camp. He posed for photographs with us, a fact that Jack Slack - a keen fisherman -will never forget.

In the afternoon, the warnings about the soaking we would receive from walking on the knife-edge bridge at the falls were quite correct... but we soon dried out in the warm breeze at the nearby local craft market.

We come home on Wednesday night / Thursday morning.

On Friday, everyone was up at 0400 for the 0530 start. We said our goodbyes and set off - making stops every two hours over the next twelve and arriving in Lusaka just after 1900 to be reunited with Jackie and hear her tale of the journey.

Our host Gulam was in a bad way when he arrived - but was now in a clinic being stabilised before surgery on Saturday. There was nothing more we could have done.

It's now Saturday; everyone looks refreshed this morning and looking forward to the 1400 reception with Kenneth Kaunda at the house of our - now invalid! - host in Makeni. Our city hotel is predictable with Zambian quirks, but welcome. Tomorrow we say goodbye to three of the team who are returning early, before travelling to Livingstone for the informal part of our stay.

Wednesday ended very well, with all the teams returning with stories. The common denominator was inspiration, and the mutual recogntion of what difference a small thing can make - like a washing bowl, or chalkboard paint. Geoff and Anthony had been teaching cricket, and Wendy's 40 footballs and team colours brought tears to eyes in the remotest schools. The list of needs and plans to fulfill them dominated the night's campfire singsong.

We brought Jack's 80th birthday forward by 7 months to allow the kids in the camp to plan a celebration party for us, and the memory of the singing of Happy Birthday by 20 Zambian drivers, cooks and game scouts will stay with us for ever.

Three teams had crossed the river by bridge but returned by punt from a point in the nature reserve opposite the camp, leaving the vehicle for our use tomorrow. Other vehicles would be driven round later that night.

Thursday started well and ended dramatically. A steady breakfast at 0730 followed by five crossings over the crocodile and hippo infested river placed us comfortably in the game reserve for a 0900
start. We had reserved Thursday for mopping up any outstanding projects and investigations, but the team have been so good at getting up early and working together that everything was completed and we managed a steady final day of safari.

The day went well and we had close encounters with everything but the big cats that the smaller group had seen the previous day.

Half way through the day I was informed that Dr Kaunda would meet us at a special reception on Saturday afternoon and that Mrs Banda, the president's wife, would like to meet us on Saturday or Sunday - so much for peace and relaxation in the final few days!

In the evening for our final dinner we were treated to a barbecue but at around 2030, disaster struck: our host tripped over a tree root and broke both the tibia and fibia of his left leg.

The fractures were obvious but considering his age, the remoteness of our position and the time of day preventing air evacuation we had to be both resouceful and brave.

The nurses in our group formed a makeshift splint from cushions and then spoke to an orthopeadic surgeon by telephone before administering a limited amount of pain relief. We then put him on a make-shift stretcher and placed him in one of the Land Rovers (together with his wife, two children and some luggage) for what we knew would be a tortuous three hour journey along the terrible roads to the nearest hospital and, eventually, a transit to the city.

Jackie Briggs went in the vehicle as the wound would became more complicated at every bump despite the splint - which even the experts left in place until they reached the city 12 hours later.

The rest of us had to take over the running of the camp, review the travel arrangements for the 0400 start on friday and try to get some sleep - whilst the elephants had their most lively forage of the week around our huts.

It’s 1230 on another glorious sunny day, and I am writing this from the office of the Principal of the Nyamaluma Game Scout Camp. That's partly because my laptop gave up four days ago and partly because Pam and Maggie are here carrying out an audit of things delivered here last year and seeing what else is needed.

Whilst this is principally for prospective game scouts and wardens and backed by ZAWA, it is a village in itself with families on site. We provided all the linen and blankets here for the trainee scouts, some office furniture, sports and entertainment equipment - including an electric organ from Mansfield which attracts a lot of attention and inspires concerts, chois and schools to visit because there isn’t another for hundreds of miles.

Scouts are sponsored to come here for their ninety day course about conservation, first aid, use of radios, sustainable crops and the other important things that will guarantee the area’s survival from predatory business men – the most destructive force of all.

Other members of NPAC are carrying out similar investigations in community schools and basic schools over the region. It will be a long day again that started at 0600 but they'll be compiling lists of needs - along with writing their names on chalkboards, playing hopscotch in the dust, and singing ‘the wheels on the bus’!

On Monday, we had to wake at 0430 and leave by 0600 - and I’m proud to report that everyone managed that! We had left some money and shoes, clothes, toys and games for the staff who had looked after us so well and set off for Nyimba for the first stop.  We have opted to stay with the same vehicles and drivers... although Isaac seems to have put on few pounds with the amount of sweets and chocolates he is being fed by the ladies from Nottingham and may need some respite!

Nyimba was a welcome sight but the proliferation of Giraffe, Elephant and hundreds of Impala and other game animals is little compensation for this journey putting us at Tundwe camp at 1900 on some of the worst terrain encountered so far. Some understandable exhaustion and travel sickness prevented us doing much on Tuesday - but the major task was assembling and sorting the contents of the mountain of extra luggage we carried for tomorrow's work in the basic and community schools. Everything was divided into nine equal piles for the schools and it looked very impressive, topped off by five new Mitre footballs and some sets of matching strip.

Some of us rested whilst others went fishing.or animal spotting. It has become a competition to spot the most and to be the first to see the elusive lions we can hear – claims of penguins and yeti are believed to be exaggerated. Bethany and Anthony have been disturbed these last few nights by animals around their hut (as have we all... but ours were elephants). Last night was the worst of all, when a troop of baboons broke through the straw roof - and the rangers couldn’t push the door open due to a pile of suitcases piled in front of it. There'll be a guard on duty tonight!

Saturday was a day of planning. The unamimous response to breakfast by the side of the South Luwangua river was “Wow”.   Jacquie and Sarah were up at first light and drinking tea in their PJ’s watching hippos. Everyone else stood in awe or took pictures - a great start. In the evening we sang songs again, recited or read a few monlogues and sat by the campfire reflecting on the silence, the stars and a great place to be.

Sunday, our last day here, was planned for us to visit Mwape village and meet with various dignataries and officials assembled for the presentation of a lorry from a local business. On the way in four vehicles we were variously: charged by an elephant; went fishing; traversed a bit of a lagoon in what was comically called a ferry; and were mobbed by barefooted kids. It was wonderful to watch the three labelled boxes from a Bingham school being carried on various heads, through various Zambian scenes to the schoolhouse!

After the ceremony, filled with oft repeated courtesies and greetings afforded the Chieftains, District Commissioner and other officers, we headed to the schools we had been supporting for three years. It was amazing to see the desks, chairs, tables and furniture still in use! The school roll has doubled to 320 even though the population has decreased - as families are forced to move nearer Nyimba to escape the exponential growth of elephant herds since the days of intensive poaching and hunting in the 1970s.

Our biggest mistake was to expose the coloured skipping ropes, bubble blowers and footballs to the assembled children who were already excited by the event!

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0400 start for 6am departure. The plan was to drive on fairly good roads to Nyimba, complete our investigations, and then go off road for 5 hours to a hunting lodge on the banks of the Luangua river.
 
Our mountain of luggage was reloaded onto the pick-up, tightly tied down, and covered with tarpaulin.

The first part went well and at Nyimba the team seperated into four groups to visit projects we had previously supported, meet people and - if happy - to compile lists for further help. These locations were only stories up until now but now the team were buying bananas, talking to real teachers and meeting real nurses and children in the wilderness. Everyone overan the alotted time and returned buzzing with wonderful stories about reception and need.

Nyimba is a crossroads frontier town but hosts the high school planned to be twinned with heritage school, Clowne, a hospital and about four basic schools we have supported. The teams worked well and detailed reports are being compiled.

Then we set off, off road. Landscapes and roads quickly deteriorated on the outskirts of the town where no wildlife was present but then changed in to beautiful unspoilt vistas punctuated by straw and mud huts. As we decended into the valley we were plagued by Tsetse flies which - whilst not dangerous - are large, peristent and give a painful (not nasty) bite. They are virtually impossible to catch or kill and every landrover was a piture of flailing arms, newspapers and sandals.

This was always going to be a testing journey and despite heeding the warnings about taking pillows and wearing loose clothing and shoes it became obvious that the relentless bumps were taking their toll on patience and health. Arriving just after dark and greeted by a choir of hippos, we did a little unpacking into four bedded straw hunting lodges, listened to the night life, and retired.

Everyone was up and in good spirits – Linda Mukutu arrived at 0830 and everything dropped into place. We walked 1km down to the familiar MYCPEA site and witnessed the transformation that Rob had organised. We got busy helping with the many minor tasks remaining - and Kenneth Kaunda arrived on time and spent an hour greeting everyone, singing and dancing with the children and generally doing what everyone loves him for.

 

As you would expect, there were a number of speeches, singing of the national anthem from orphanage kids, and more songs from a church choir - but the pièce de résistance was a play by the older CP boys in wheelcchairs who, in the space of fifteen minutes attracted a standing ovation as they dispelled all the myths and prejudices about CP with a sophisticated and inspiring piece about modern life and choosing charity.

 

Rob was everywhere with his camera and must have some great photos but he was also involved with the tree planting and everythng else we hoped he would be. He helped KK to plant the tree, and it has to be recorded as a joint effort – they shared a spade, got their hands dirty together, shared a watering can and arranged the tree – then posed for photos as friends – we are very proud of him.

 

KK returned for a short time to Fringilla Lodge but we hosted the other dignitaries to lunch and reflected on a great opening to Africa.

 

We then went on to pay our hotel bills, assemble our things and plan for our last evening.

 

In the evening we went to the nearby farm of Dutch and George Collinson where we picked cotton, sang songs, drank beer and planned for the 0400 call next morning!

Day one the day of travel.

The day seemed to start well. Twenty people divided between Birmingham and Humberside airports. It was a bit early for those travelling the furtherest and first one the pick up list but Birmingham was reported busy and unfriendly whilst Humberside welcomed it's first passengers of the day.

We met up successfully in Schifol,Amsterdam and boarded the capacity 747 for Nairobi. This must have been one of the oldest Jumbo's in service and rattled too much for comfort as we took off.

It was a long journey (mostly over the Sahara it seemed) but with plenty of airline food to sustain us to Nairobi.

Nairobi airport resembled a cattle market at 1930 and we had about an hour to make the connection. Luckily our luggage had been forwarded direct and I left the others to collect my delayed boarding pass.

The queue was huge but kind and allowed me(?) to jump it and be directed to another queue, to be directed to the boarding gate to be refused entry. Various appeals resulted in my being bumped up to the only spare seat in first class where the champagne was a little on the warm side - but acceptable.

Kenya Airways lived up to it's repuation of being late and we arrived at Lusaka at 0130, two hours behind schedule where luckily our transport had waited.

Most of the luggage arrived and we hope that the rest will be here sometime in the next couple of weeks. Meanwhile we can always share.

So, with 19 people and our huge amount of remaining luggage (consisting mainly of 200 footballs, kit, skipping ropes, books, games and clothing) in a creaking old diesel Misubishi mini-bus the team made slow and compact progress to Fringilla Lodge, Chisamba, via the copper-belt highway. As I followed in the shiny Toyota Land-cruiser with Isaac Kapambwe and Linda Mukutu, I hoped that the lodge staff were still waiitng for us.

At 0300 we reached Chisamba township and then Fringilla lodge and were welcomed by attentive smiling staff and shown to our rooms of six, four and two bedded, well appointed chalets. There is no doubt that the huge single overflow room I have been forced to occupy will attract some comment but I'll stick it out, it's only for a couple of days.

Morning,
Up at 0800 to prepare for the meetings throughout the day and try to retrieve the luggage. Same clothes don't feel too bad but I need to borrow a razor. This is a large 'Safari' lodge at the side of the main highway to and from the copperbelt. We aren't it's full fee paying guests because of the work we are doing in the schools and particularly for the cerebral palsy clinic next door - so a good deal has been struck and it serves as a gentle introduction to Zambia

George wants us to try to influence the local council to approve the building of a Police Station here to frighten the locals...

The welcome has been great so far, and the locals very warm and polite.

Martin Holman was next followed by Pam and Jack were were woken up early by the lion cub in the next yard, then came the ever smiling Pete Brownhill.

There's a lot of laughing coming from the two rooms occupied by the eleven ladies - so that's a good sign.

The owner of the lodge has been sitting with me for ten minutes and set out his plans, and then sent James the restaurant manager to talk about food arrangments for the next couple of days, including the 0530 start on Friday.

So far so good?

12 hours before the taxi collects us on it's multistop run to the airport for a 0600 flight. Some last minute queries but all in all a calm lovely Sunday in England before the big adventure.
I think everything is prepared in Zam - but not a lot we can do about it now. I have a feeling that our friends will have underestimated the amount of luggage we are bringing containing all the footballs, team kit and shoes, but it just means another run to the airport if so.

Rob Harbour has confirmed that accomodation is booked for the first night.